March 9: Mumbai – KIA (Kilimanjaro International Airport)
I flew from Mumbai to Kilimanjaro by Kenya Airlines. I didn’t take my yellow fever certificate. I kept wondering whether I would be stopped to enter into Tanzania. My friends CK and Sidhu bade me adieu from Mumbai at 12:00 night. I checked in my baggage and proceeded for emigration procedure.
As I kept waiting to board the flight my thoughts switched back and forth with what was over and what was forthcoming. I wanted to relish the joy of Antarctica and Aconcagua climbs, but had to keep going for the big peaks ahead to be climbed. I returned to India from these climbs only in the last week of February and soon got busy with obtaining Tanzania visa and flight tickets booking. I haven’t paid for my Everest climb and it is only three week’s time go for it. Amidst my reflections, I heard the announcement of Kenya Airways to board the flight and so I began to walk towards the queue comprising travellers returning to Africa with their business booty. I was the only one to board with a mission to climb the peak, a crazy mountaineer. As the flight took off into the lightless clouds I slipped myself into sleep above 30,000ft paying little attention to Airhostess’s routine listless pre-flight instructions.
I got down at Nairobi, (Kenya) and was welcomed by pleasant breeze. It’s only 45mt flight from Nairobi to KIA (Kilimanjaro International Airport). But I had to wait for 4hrs. I had walked around the shops window shopping. I bough a banana fruit for fifty rupees (Equivalent Indian) wondering the merchandise of foreign exchange. As I strolled in the airport, I could see the similar souls like me with backpacks some aspiring for Kilimanjaro and some for Safari tour. Eventually the wait time was over and I proceeded towards the flight. Before boarding the flight, I was asked to identify my baggage which was an excellent way of keeping track of baggage for such short flights. Had Everest flights flying from Kathmandu to Lukla followed this procedure I would have been spared from a bitter experience that waited for me in Lukla exactly a month later.
It’s a small 15 people carrying flight. I picked up a few candies that Airhostess offered. I was eager to catch the glimpse of “Kilimanjaro peaks” – Kibo, Shira and Mawanzi during the flight. When I climbed in 2005, there was no snow at all on the mountain all the way from Barafu camp4600m to summit 5895m. I was a little disappointed with the absence of snow. But as the flight approached the roof of Africa, Pilot made the announcement, “You can see mount Kilimanjaro on your left side and Mt. Meru on your right side”. What a wonderful sight it was to see the mountain from above the clouds and wishfully think that in a couple of days I will be standing on its summit. Next it was time to fasten the seat belts. The flight was filled mostly with the tourists and Africa was an exotic travel to everybody. I was consumed by the thoughts of climb. I haven’t booked with any travel company for my climb at Moshi or Arusha. Since last time even after booking upon arrival in Kilimanjaro, the booking was not confirmed and I had to plan and arrange everything in Moshi. So, I thought as well I would land up in KIA (Kilimanjaro International Airport) and look for my guides and porters. As I collected my baggage and walked out of the Immigration box towards the exit, a "masai" greeted me – “Karibu Kilimanjaro!” (Welcome to Kilimanjaro). Answering the Greeting, with “asante sana” (Thank you very much), I walked out of the door to breathe the air where the African Simba roared in distanant Serengeti .
I flew from Mumbai to Kilimanjaro by Kenya Airlines. I didn’t take my yellow fever certificate. I kept wondering whether I would be stopped to enter into Tanzania. My friends CK and Sidhu bade me adieu from Mumbai at 12:00 night. I checked in my baggage and proceeded for emigration procedure.
As I kept waiting to board the flight my thoughts switched back and forth with what was over and what was forthcoming. I wanted to relish the joy of Antarctica and Aconcagua climbs, but had to keep going for the big peaks ahead to be climbed. I returned to India from these climbs only in the last week of February and soon got busy with obtaining Tanzania visa and flight tickets booking. I haven’t paid for my Everest climb and it is only three week’s time go for it. Amidst my reflections, I heard the announcement of Kenya Airways to board the flight and so I began to walk towards the queue comprising travellers returning to Africa with their business booty. I was the only one to board with a mission to climb the peak, a crazy mountaineer. As the flight took off into the lightless clouds I slipped myself into sleep above 30,000ft paying little attention to Airhostess’s routine listless pre-flight instructions.
I got down at Nairobi, (Kenya) and was welcomed by pleasant breeze. It’s only 45mt flight from Nairobi to KIA (Kilimanjaro International Airport). But I had to wait for 4hrs. I had walked around the shops window shopping. I bough a banana fruit for fifty rupees (Equivalent Indian) wondering the merchandise of foreign exchange. As I strolled in the airport, I could see the similar souls like me with backpacks some aspiring for Kilimanjaro and some for Safari tour. Eventually the wait time was over and I proceeded towards the flight. Before boarding the flight, I was asked to identify my baggage which was an excellent way of keeping track of baggage for such short flights. Had Everest flights flying from Kathmandu to Lukla followed this procedure I would have been spared from a bitter experience that waited for me in Lukla exactly a month later.
It’s a small 15 people carrying flight. I picked up a few candies that Airhostess offered. I was eager to catch the glimpse of “Kilimanjaro peaks” – Kibo, Shira and Mawanzi during the flight. When I climbed in 2005, there was no snow at all on the mountain all the way from Barafu camp4600m to summit 5895m. I was a little disappointed with the absence of snow. But as the flight approached the roof of Africa, Pilot made the announcement, “You can see mount Kilimanjaro on your left side and Mt. Meru on your right side”. What a wonderful sight it was to see the mountain from above the clouds and wishfully think that in a couple of days I will be standing on its summit. Next it was time to fasten the seat belts. The flight was filled mostly with the tourists and Africa was an exotic travel to everybody. I was consumed by the thoughts of climb. I haven’t booked with any travel company for my climb at Moshi or Arusha. Since last time even after booking upon arrival in Kilimanjaro, the booking was not confirmed and I had to plan and arrange everything in Moshi. So, I thought as well I would land up in KIA (Kilimanjaro International Airport) and look for my guides and porters. As I collected my baggage and walked out of the Immigration box towards the exit, a "masai" greeted me – “Karibu Kilimanjaro!” (Welcome to Kilimanjaro). Answering the Greeting, with “asante sana” (Thank you very much), I walked out of the door to breathe the air where the African Simba roared in distanant Serengeti .
March 10: Planning the Kili Climb
As I walked out of the exit, I found a few taxi drivers accosting to drive to Moshi/Arusha. It wasn’t as painful as that Delhi, Mumbai ilk. With the experience of my earlier visit I was able to bargain for a good price. I wanted to visit Arusha as I had already visited Moshi in 2005. I wanted to understand how things worked in Arusha. I chatted with the driver and conveyed that I am looking for climb support with minimum people and budget climb option. He knew a friend who is a guide. It was an hour and half drive to Arusha from KIA. I put up myself in one of the Hotels close to Market, and Telephone exchange.
The Driver went on to look for the Guide and support staff as well as purchase plans for my climb. I spent walking around the place; Life in Tanzania is hard for the natives. Local markets sprang at every opportunity of merchandizing One Dollar worth good! It reminded me of some of the remote and backward areas of India and I wondered if India’s condition is worse than this or better or no better than this. I purchased a few fruits, ate some local food (they also have rice for main course).
I visited the upcoming cyber cafes and sent mails to my friends who were following my journeys. I specially had to check up with My Everest Climb Company – Summit Climb. I saw a mail from “Summit Climb”, the Company with which I registered for Everest Ascent. I was told to pay the money as early as possible, if I intend to be on the permit list. I spoke with Mr. Venkat Devarapalli, Mr. Satyam Bheemarasetty and Verma Nadimpalli who were helping to raise funds for the 7 Summits mission.
I figured that they were a couple of Indian restaurants; I had met dinner at one of these places and returned to my hotel. By then my guide Hosea has come to the hotel. We discussed our plan for the next day. We decided to start at 5 AM for the park entrance and start the trek as early as possible. With this, I returned to the warmth of my cosy bed considering that I wouldn’t get good sleep for another five days ahead.
March 11: Pole Pole Kilimanjaro
Machame Gate 1490m– Machame Camp 2980m (18km/5hrs)
It took about an hour and half to drive to the entrance of Machame gate. There were lot of expeditions already with lot of action. Guides were organizing their porters to weigh the bags they are carrying. My guide kept walking back and forth; I didn’t understand what was happening. And there were lot of locals selling the Rain coats as well as covers for the back packs. The prices would fall fifty percent of what was quoted with the time, as the sellers become desperate with the climbers walking towards the forest. I felt excited watching all the commotion. Later Hosea informed me that he has completed the formalities and I finish signing in the register so that we can walk into the forest. After all the admin work, I was eager to proceed into the rain dense forest vegetation.
Machame camp at 2980m is 18km away from Machame gate. Knowing that it’s a long walk I started walking slowly into the forest chatting with the porters how they spent their lives when not working on the mountain. I got engrossed in the forest taking pictures of the flowers that I passed by. The verdant vegetation was awe inspiring. I didn’t feel any difficulty in walking; I was enjoying the pace and the surroundings. I had a small snacks break after 2hrs of walk. No where along the trail is it possible to see Kilimanjaro peak. Along the trail I photographed “Impatiens Kilimanjari’ (Elephant trunk flower), Gladiolus watsonioides, Impatiens pseudoviola, and a few more exotic little flowers.
After about three hours of walking I saw the dense forest giving way and the vegetation started to thin out hinting the approach towards alpine zone. It starts getting steep rise as we climb out of the forest. Towards the end of the forest Red hot poker ( Knipophia thomsonii) flowers would be visible. Machame hut suddenly comes into vicinity as we trudge out the forest. The vegetation begins to diminish its size from large woods to smaller trees. As I waited to make entry in the register at Machame camp, the clouds cleared and I had the first view of Uhuru peak. It was exciting to watch the mountain looming in clouds though I would summit in a couple of days!
Later, we proceeded a bit further towards Shira trail and looked for an isolated patch to pitch my tent. It was closer to the full moon time; I could enjoy the view of Uhuru peak for quite a long period which was very unusual at Machame camp. My cook had prepared hot tea, and snacks. I relished them sitting on a chair which is possible only on Kilimanjaro climb. Later I sauntered around the camp environs. At about 7 PM it was dinner time and I had a good meal along with fresh fruits. I informed the guide that I would like to start by 7:30 and accordingly bed tea and break fast be prepared. I enjoyed the sight of numerous stars shining in the clear sky devoid of any kind of city pollution wondering about the theories behind declining glaciers on Kilimanjaro. Mission 7 summits was running in the back of my mind which I forcefully put aside so as to gain good sleep.
As I walked out of the exit, I found a few taxi drivers accosting to drive to Moshi/Arusha. It wasn’t as painful as that Delhi, Mumbai ilk. With the experience of my earlier visit I was able to bargain for a good price. I wanted to visit Arusha as I had already visited Moshi in 2005. I wanted to understand how things worked in Arusha. I chatted with the driver and conveyed that I am looking for climb support with minimum people and budget climb option. He knew a friend who is a guide. It was an hour and half drive to Arusha from KIA. I put up myself in one of the Hotels close to Market, and Telephone exchange.
The Driver went on to look for the Guide and support staff as well as purchase plans for my climb. I spent walking around the place; Life in Tanzania is hard for the natives. Local markets sprang at every opportunity of merchandizing One Dollar worth good! It reminded me of some of the remote and backward areas of India and I wondered if India’s condition is worse than this or better or no better than this. I purchased a few fruits, ate some local food (they also have rice for main course).
I visited the upcoming cyber cafes and sent mails to my friends who were following my journeys. I specially had to check up with My Everest Climb Company – Summit Climb. I saw a mail from “Summit Climb”, the Company with which I registered for Everest Ascent. I was told to pay the money as early as possible, if I intend to be on the permit list. I spoke with Mr. Venkat Devarapalli, Mr. Satyam Bheemarasetty and Verma Nadimpalli who were helping to raise funds for the 7 Summits mission.
I figured that they were a couple of Indian restaurants; I had met dinner at one of these places and returned to my hotel. By then my guide Hosea has come to the hotel. We discussed our plan for the next day. We decided to start at 5 AM for the park entrance and start the trek as early as possible. With this, I returned to the warmth of my cosy bed considering that I wouldn’t get good sleep for another five days ahead.
March 11: Pole Pole Kilimanjaro
Machame Gate 1490m– Machame Camp 2980m (18km/5hrs)
It took about an hour and half to drive to the entrance of Machame gate. There were lot of expeditions already with lot of action. Guides were organizing their porters to weigh the bags they are carrying. My guide kept walking back and forth; I didn’t understand what was happening. And there were lot of locals selling the Rain coats as well as covers for the back packs. The prices would fall fifty percent of what was quoted with the time, as the sellers become desperate with the climbers walking towards the forest. I felt excited watching all the commotion. Later Hosea informed me that he has completed the formalities and I finish signing in the register so that we can walk into the forest. After all the admin work, I was eager to proceed into the rain dense forest vegetation.
Machame camp at 2980m is 18km away from Machame gate. Knowing that it’s a long walk I started walking slowly into the forest chatting with the porters how they spent their lives when not working on the mountain. I got engrossed in the forest taking pictures of the flowers that I passed by. The verdant vegetation was awe inspiring. I didn’t feel any difficulty in walking; I was enjoying the pace and the surroundings. I had a small snacks break after 2hrs of walk. No where along the trail is it possible to see Kilimanjaro peak. Along the trail I photographed “Impatiens Kilimanjari’ (Elephant trunk flower), Gladiolus watsonioides, Impatiens pseudoviola, and a few more exotic little flowers.
After about three hours of walking I saw the dense forest giving way and the vegetation started to thin out hinting the approach towards alpine zone. It starts getting steep rise as we climb out of the forest. Towards the end of the forest Red hot poker ( Knipophia thomsonii) flowers would be visible. Machame hut suddenly comes into vicinity as we trudge out the forest. The vegetation begins to diminish its size from large woods to smaller trees. As I waited to make entry in the register at Machame camp, the clouds cleared and I had the first view of Uhuru peak. It was exciting to watch the mountain looming in clouds though I would summit in a couple of days!
Later, we proceeded a bit further towards Shira trail and looked for an isolated patch to pitch my tent. It was closer to the full moon time; I could enjoy the view of Uhuru peak for quite a long period which was very unusual at Machame camp. My cook had prepared hot tea, and snacks. I relished them sitting on a chair which is possible only on Kilimanjaro climb. Later I sauntered around the camp environs. At about 7 PM it was dinner time and I had a good meal along with fresh fruits. I informed the guide that I would like to start by 7:30 and accordingly bed tea and break fast be prepared. I enjoyed the sight of numerous stars shining in the clear sky devoid of any kind of city pollution wondering about the theories behind declining glaciers on Kilimanjaro. Mission 7 summits was running in the back of my mind which I forcefully put aside so as to gain good sleep.
No comments:
Post a Comment