Barafu 4600m – Uhuru Summit 5895 – Mweka gate (45km/ 13hrs) – Arusha
I woke up at about 12:00hrs in the mid night and started preparing for summit push. I checked my gear and came out. As I walked out of the tent, I was greeted with the sky full of stars and all around the camp illuminated with moon light. I was very excited at the prospect of climbing in moon light. My porters were already awake and were preparing tea and soup for me. I had a few slices of bread before consuming soup and hot tea. My porters wished me and the guide “good luck” as we departed towards upper slopes beyond Barafu camp.
I noticed the string of lights progressing up the mountain indicating the presence of several climbers already up the mountain. Hosea and my self I started walking slowly up the mountain. Initially it was fine but soon we had to breath hard to walk up the mountain.. Hosea was with me and we both kept steady pace. After about an hour’s hike, we encountered the snow field. I was excited to walk on the snow. When I climbed in 2005, there was no snow at all. It was exciting to walk up the mountain in snow. I kept recollecting my previous year’s climb, when I took each step up the mountain with a heavy head due to poor acclimatization and vomited at some points. Climbing in the moon light felt like a perfect vacation. I was breathing hard but found my rhythm.
I kept climbing steadily and I consumed water and ate chocolates at regular intervals. It took nearly three hrs by the time I finished the steep ascent to the projection leading to the upper slopes just below the saddle that joins with Stella point. We took some rest here consuming tea and biscuits. I have joined with some of the climbers taking rest here. Weather have very good till now. I glanced at Mt. Mawanzi peak shining in distant illuminated by moon light. After greeting the climbers, we resumed our walk further up the mountain.
Each step that I was taking put me one step closer to the completion of 3rd continental summit in sequence taking me closer to accomplishment of mission 7 summits. With each step the Stella point saddle came closer, I was breathing hard. I kept attaining rhythm in my breathing. I continued the steady pace.
It just began to dawn when I was approaching the flanks of Stella saddle, I gazed at the view that surroundings offered; The view all around was a kin to ethereal with white clouds hanging below the mountain slopes. Mawanzi seemed to be hanging in the clouds. I took each step carefully walking in the snow. In another half an hours climb, I reached the saddle and by the time we arrived at Stella point it’s about 6 AM and the day hasn’t dawned yet. Weather has been perfectly good until we were short of the summit by fifty horizontal yards. And then it lashed heavy winds and snowing. Instantly the temperature dropped making it very difficult even to take out hands out of gloves an take the summit photo graph. I tried to hold the Indian flag, I was carrying but the winds wouldn’t allow. I could feel the initial signs of Hypothermia. Every one on the summit was having hard time taking summit picture. Hosea managed to click a picture amidst those heavy winds an snow fall while the visibility was getting almost negligible.
We clicked photographs for a few other summiteers before resuming our descent. The Rebmann glacier on the summit stood as testimony to our testing time in this inclement weather that seemed very innocuous until a few minutes to the summit. This made me remember the famous quote – “It’s not over until, it’s over!”
Soon, we were at Stella point and sun rays were trying hard to penetrate through the haze of the white out. We took a short break at Stella point taking shelter against the hard winds by the side of rock projections. We saw some climbers approaching towards the summit. We greeted them and proceeded to descend the mountain. I made a quick descent to the camp. My porters were waiting with tea and biscuits for me. It was a welcome sight. They congratulated for my summit.
I told the guide, that we push towards the Mweka gate the same day with out halting at Mweka camp. It’s a long descent; From Barafu camp, the descent follows the same route of ascent up to Karanga. As it gets closer to the Mweka camp, the vegetation appears. There were some beautiful flowers and birds as well. We came across an intermediate hut where we had to sign in the register. It was another hour’s descent to reach Mweka camp which is a very beautiful location amidst dense forest. From here the forest gets denser as we follow the route towards the park exit point. There were some beautiful species of monkeys. The ferns and other verdant plantation looming darkness with their dense vegetation was awe inspiring. Soon I came to end of the foot path and it was relief as well as a feeling of proud to walk out of the Kilimanjaro National park; while I smugly told myself that, three down 4 to go!
Up on reaching the Mweka village, we were all very excited and elated. I signed in the park ranger and received the summit certificate. Our vehicle was ready to take us to Arusha. I looked forward for the hot bath and the warmth of a cosy bed for good sleep. As soon as I reached Arusha, I settled the payment to the guide and tips to porters.
After taking bath and feeling myself good, I visited one of the cyber cafes to check mails. I had mail from Mr. Dan Mazur, with whom I registered to climb Everest. There was mail from him, saying that if I don’t pay the remaining expedition fee immediately, I am out of the Expedition which meant that I would attempt Everest as well whole Fastest 7 summits project would take a back seat. It was March 15th and in another two weeks all my Everest expedition team would assemble in Kathmandu. According my fastest 7 summits plan, I wanted to complete Kosciusko, tallest peak of Australia for which I had to get Visa stamping.
Considering all of this and the intent of lack of time available for me, I flew out of Kilimanjaro on March 17 for Mumbai, little aware that there was a bottleneck waiting for me in Mumbai. I got down from the plane in the wee hours 2AM, collected my baggage and walked to the immigration desk. As I showed my passport and submitted the flight ticket, I was asked another document – Yellow fever certificate. I didn’t have! In another one hour I was escorted to the Airport Quarantine hospital, where I spent seven precious days under house arrest. I was released on March 24th; I flew to Delhi on 25th and March26th being Sunday, I couldn’t apply for Australian visa. Finally I gave the documents to Embassy on 27th and hoped that I would get the passport with stamping in one two days. I felt fortunate to receive the passport on 29th; but it was at 4PM, that I received and I had to catch a flight for Mumbai at 6:30 PM, and catch the international flight schedule in the night same day!. I prayed that I would make it Delhi airport and my prayers were heard, I felt in retrospect.
My next days unfurled a quick drama of events until Everest entry:
March 29, 4PM: Obtained Visa; 6:30 PM: flew from Delhi - Mumbai
March 29 night: Boarded flight from Mumbai – Sydney
March 30: Flew from Sydney – Canberra
March 31: Bus drive: Canberra – Thredbo
April 1st Saturday (Summit): started for summit at 11:30 AM and reached summit in about one hour and returned to the youth hostel in Thredbo before 3:00 PM.
April 2nd: Thredbo – Canberra
April 3rd: Canberra – Sydney
Aril 4: Sydney – Mumbai (April 5)
April 6th: Mumbai – Delhi
April 7th: Delhi – Kathmandu (Struck in Demonstrations) into the chaos of Curfew days!
April 11th: fly Kathmanu – Lukla;
I learnt that, Airlines have lost my gear, comprising all my climbing gear!
A wave of despair struck my face as I stood gazing at the azure sky of solu khumbu where the mountains rose into sky like citadels!
I woke up at about 12:00hrs in the mid night and started preparing for summit push. I checked my gear and came out. As I walked out of the tent, I was greeted with the sky full of stars and all around the camp illuminated with moon light. I was very excited at the prospect of climbing in moon light. My porters were already awake and were preparing tea and soup for me. I had a few slices of bread before consuming soup and hot tea. My porters wished me and the guide “good luck” as we departed towards upper slopes beyond Barafu camp.
I noticed the string of lights progressing up the mountain indicating the presence of several climbers already up the mountain. Hosea and my self I started walking slowly up the mountain. Initially it was fine but soon we had to breath hard to walk up the mountain.. Hosea was with me and we both kept steady pace. After about an hour’s hike, we encountered the snow field. I was excited to walk on the snow. When I climbed in 2005, there was no snow at all. It was exciting to walk up the mountain in snow. I kept recollecting my previous year’s climb, when I took each step up the mountain with a heavy head due to poor acclimatization and vomited at some points. Climbing in the moon light felt like a perfect vacation. I was breathing hard but found my rhythm.
I kept climbing steadily and I consumed water and ate chocolates at regular intervals. It took nearly three hrs by the time I finished the steep ascent to the projection leading to the upper slopes just below the saddle that joins with Stella point. We took some rest here consuming tea and biscuits. I have joined with some of the climbers taking rest here. Weather have very good till now. I glanced at Mt. Mawanzi peak shining in distant illuminated by moon light. After greeting the climbers, we resumed our walk further up the mountain.
Each step that I was taking put me one step closer to the completion of 3rd continental summit in sequence taking me closer to accomplishment of mission 7 summits. With each step the Stella point saddle came closer, I was breathing hard. I kept attaining rhythm in my breathing. I continued the steady pace.
It just began to dawn when I was approaching the flanks of Stella saddle, I gazed at the view that surroundings offered; The view all around was a kin to ethereal with white clouds hanging below the mountain slopes. Mawanzi seemed to be hanging in the clouds. I took each step carefully walking in the snow. In another half an hours climb, I reached the saddle and by the time we arrived at Stella point it’s about 6 AM and the day hasn’t dawned yet. Weather has been perfectly good until we were short of the summit by fifty horizontal yards. And then it lashed heavy winds and snowing. Instantly the temperature dropped making it very difficult even to take out hands out of gloves an take the summit photo graph. I tried to hold the Indian flag, I was carrying but the winds wouldn’t allow. I could feel the initial signs of Hypothermia. Every one on the summit was having hard time taking summit picture. Hosea managed to click a picture amidst those heavy winds an snow fall while the visibility was getting almost negligible.
We clicked photographs for a few other summiteers before resuming our descent. The Rebmann glacier on the summit stood as testimony to our testing time in this inclement weather that seemed very innocuous until a few minutes to the summit. This made me remember the famous quote – “It’s not over until, it’s over!”
Soon, we were at Stella point and sun rays were trying hard to penetrate through the haze of the white out. We took a short break at Stella point taking shelter against the hard winds by the side of rock projections. We saw some climbers approaching towards the summit. We greeted them and proceeded to descend the mountain. I made a quick descent to the camp. My porters were waiting with tea and biscuits for me. It was a welcome sight. They congratulated for my summit.
I told the guide, that we push towards the Mweka gate the same day with out halting at Mweka camp. It’s a long descent; From Barafu camp, the descent follows the same route of ascent up to Karanga. As it gets closer to the Mweka camp, the vegetation appears. There were some beautiful flowers and birds as well. We came across an intermediate hut where we had to sign in the register. It was another hour’s descent to reach Mweka camp which is a very beautiful location amidst dense forest. From here the forest gets denser as we follow the route towards the park exit point. There were some beautiful species of monkeys. The ferns and other verdant plantation looming darkness with their dense vegetation was awe inspiring. Soon I came to end of the foot path and it was relief as well as a feeling of proud to walk out of the Kilimanjaro National park; while I smugly told myself that, three down 4 to go!
Up on reaching the Mweka village, we were all very excited and elated. I signed in the park ranger and received the summit certificate. Our vehicle was ready to take us to Arusha. I looked forward for the hot bath and the warmth of a cosy bed for good sleep. As soon as I reached Arusha, I settled the payment to the guide and tips to porters.
After taking bath and feeling myself good, I visited one of the cyber cafes to check mails. I had mail from Mr. Dan Mazur, with whom I registered to climb Everest. There was mail from him, saying that if I don’t pay the remaining expedition fee immediately, I am out of the Expedition which meant that I would attempt Everest as well whole Fastest 7 summits project would take a back seat. It was March 15th and in another two weeks all my Everest expedition team would assemble in Kathmandu. According my fastest 7 summits plan, I wanted to complete Kosciusko, tallest peak of Australia for which I had to get Visa stamping.
Considering all of this and the intent of lack of time available for me, I flew out of Kilimanjaro on March 17 for Mumbai, little aware that there was a bottleneck waiting for me in Mumbai. I got down from the plane in the wee hours 2AM, collected my baggage and walked to the immigration desk. As I showed my passport and submitted the flight ticket, I was asked another document – Yellow fever certificate. I didn’t have! In another one hour I was escorted to the Airport Quarantine hospital, where I spent seven precious days under house arrest. I was released on March 24th; I flew to Delhi on 25th and March26th being Sunday, I couldn’t apply for Australian visa. Finally I gave the documents to Embassy on 27th and hoped that I would get the passport with stamping in one two days. I felt fortunate to receive the passport on 29th; but it was at 4PM, that I received and I had to catch a flight for Mumbai at 6:30 PM, and catch the international flight schedule in the night same day!. I prayed that I would make it Delhi airport and my prayers were heard, I felt in retrospect.
My next days unfurled a quick drama of events until Everest entry:
March 29, 4PM: Obtained Visa; 6:30 PM: flew from Delhi - Mumbai
March 29 night: Boarded flight from Mumbai – Sydney
March 30: Flew from Sydney – Canberra
March 31: Bus drive: Canberra – Thredbo
April 1st Saturday (Summit): started for summit at 11:30 AM and reached summit in about one hour and returned to the youth hostel in Thredbo before 3:00 PM.
April 2nd: Thredbo – Canberra
April 3rd: Canberra – Sydney
Aril 4: Sydney – Mumbai (April 5)
April 6th: Mumbai – Delhi
April 7th: Delhi – Kathmandu (Struck in Demonstrations) into the chaos of Curfew days!
April 11th: fly Kathmanu – Lukla;
I learnt that, Airlines have lost my gear, comprising all my climbing gear!
A wave of despair struck my face as I stood gazing at the azure sky of solu khumbu where the mountains rose into sky like citadels!
Everest Beacons!
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