Saturday, June 28, 2008

Machame Camp 2980m – Summit Camp (Barafu 4600m)





March 12: Machame Camp 2980m – Shira Camp 3850m (9km/3hrs)

The walk from Machame camp to Shira sees the transition of physical features from big trees to smaller shrubs as we progress towards shira camp. Towards the Shira camp it becomes an alpine desert. This day’s hike is an easy walk with out much steep ascents or descents but gradually increases in slope.

Along this trail, it’s possible to enjoy the sight of Kilimanjaro peak at some point. Also several beautiful high alititude flowers bloom in this region. Exotic flowers like, “Lobelia Deckenii”, Senecio Kilimanjaro are seen here. In distance the Shira plateau touches the skyline and one can sight very interesting hues of brightness sparking between the clouds caused by the sun’s rays.

I noticed another fit climber from Spain. He along with another old man was walking fast. We later introduced each other. I learnt that he runs a travel company back in Spain and he is good at mountain biking. Kilimanjaro is a mountain which draws its tourists across the globe fitness ranging from excellent to very mild. This is not a technical mountain and can be walked all the way up to the summit. By preparing well for altitude gain, long hikes and cold weather condition both mentally and physically any body can climb Kilimanjaro on any route.

It took me three hours to hike from Machame camp to Shira camp. It gets windy at this camp as there isn’t much vegetation one starts feeling cold. It’s good to protect oneself for cold. I had my evening snacks and walked a little towards the cave camp as acclimatization stroll. I returned to the comfort my tent as it became dark. I had hot tea and went to bed. Though I was climbing Kilimnajro, My thoughts were preoccupied with Australia travel and Everest climb. I was worried that I may not get the Australian visa in time so as to attempt it before Everest. But there is nothing I could do being on the flanks of Kilimanajro where I can’t even communicate with anybody. I tried focussing on enjoying as much as the Uhuru climb can offer.


March 13: Shira Camp (3800m) – Barranco 3850m via Lava Tower 4630m (13 km)

I could see my self walking fast and covering camps much earlier than average time so, I decided to take it easy from now on as well this would help me acclimatize better. The trail from Shira to Lava tower is devoid of vegetation. One could identify the rocky debris as emanated from volcanic eruptions.

The trail takes eastern turn along the alpine desert feature and then keeps going up and down but not very steep any where. I arrived at Lava tower soon. As I went close and examined it from behind I could see a route leading to the top. It required a little bit of rock climbing but was not difficult. It took me about a few minutes to reach the top. I sat on the top enjoying the view on all sides. I ate biscuits on the top. My guide “Hosea” also followed me.
As I started descending I saw the Spanish climber preparing to come up the lava tower.

Later I resumed my walk towards Barranco camp. The lead went through rocky terrain, and from between two protruding faces the trail descends into a valley leading to Barranco. I kept the direction and started descending fast into Barranco valley. The trail follows through a sandy terrain coupled with some rocks, to the left the view of Kilimanjaro and the western breach glaciers appears imposing sight. Approaching closer to the Barranco camp there’s a water stream flowing towards Barranco camp. Follow the trail on its right side. Camp is visible prominently from here and the Secenico trees are present in large numbers. There’s steep wall on the right side leaving which we descend into the valley where Barranco camp space located. Those not acclimatised well will start feeling the initial symptoms of altitude sickness. The rangers once again made rounds with the register to take entry of the climbers into the book.

My porters were a little bit behind me, so I chose to walk around the area. I saw the huge Barranco “breakfast” wall which invoked a little bit of fear in me when I stood watching it from Barranco camp in 2005. Until here I was following a trail that was not known to me.

Machame and Umbwe routes both join at Barranco and proceed to Barafu via Kangra valley. Marangu route is further east. Climbers following “Barafu”, stella point and those taking “Marangu” Kibo hut and Gillman point will join together only at stella point.

I walked towards the waterfall beneath “Barranco Wall” and then walked around the camp. One finds lot of birds similar to that of sparrow, crows approaching the camps for food. I also saw rodents with out tail.

The prolific “exotic” secenic plantation is awe inspiring. The leaves, branching out from the stem all invoke a kind of admiration for this alpine vegetation. Though it’s almost 13,000ft these plants are as big as trees. They are much bigger than shrubs.

I sauntered around so as to feel satisfied of acclimatization. My porters have arrived and served me with hot tea and pop corn. I observed several climbers busy with their chores. Some are tensed as its getting closer to the summit camp. The weather has been very good and while the moon light lit the higher slopes of Uhuru peak it glowed in silver hues!
Here I met a lone woman who has come through the “Umbwe route”. She was from England and was enjoying her adventure on Kilimanjaro. Though she was in her late thirties, she looked very healthy and fit. I chatted for a while and then proceeded towards my camp. By now I established my rep as fast walker on the mountain, so people started enquiring about my mountaineering experience. So, I shared about my 7 summits quest.

As I started getting closer to the summit camp, my thoughts started preoccupying with the next mountain to be climbed. I went to bed by 9pm, though couldn’t sleep very well thinking of a long walk to Barafu camp next day. It’s cold at this camp and so wearing down jacket not a bad idea.
Barranco 3850m – Barafu 4600m (15km)

I woke up leisurely and waited for the sun rise before I got out of the tent. I had my tea inside the tent and let my self lie inside relaxing. After having breakfast 8 AM, I started walking towards “Barranco breakfast wall”. I noticed the Umbwe lady climbing well on the upper slopes of the wall. I reached top a little later and drank water ate biscuits. Later I started descending into the valley leading to “Karanga camp”. The descent initially follows easy rock sections and then enters alpine desert kind of physical feature. Kilimanjaro looks very impressive from here. The separation of between the land masses here is attributed to “Rift Valley Theory”, where the creek is created in the land mass due to “Constructive margin” phenomenon.

After an easy desert walk, the trail approaches a section, which requires diligence as it’s gradient is little steep coupled with damp conditions. At some sections the trail squeezes narrowly between the rocks. This is neither dangerous nor difficult but requires diligence.
After this the trail descends into the bottom of the valley. At this point all the teams collects water as it’s not available at Karanga camp or any where up until one reaches “Barafu” camp. Water point is not very close; one has to walk about two hundred meters to fetch water from the stream coming from Kilimanjaro slopes in the north east direction.

One finds very good variety of flowers here as well. White paper like flowers, yellow flowers and secenio are more in number though. It’s again a steep ascent of nearly two hundred meters taking approximately 30-40mts with out breaks.
Just at the top of it is “Karanga” camp. Weather was perfectly good and I kept praising my luck. I was feeling very well physically too as I allowed my self an extra day on mountain than I did in 2005. We took break here to have our mid day meal. Soon I resumed walk along the slopes leading towards Barafu camp. It’s another 2-3hrs from here. I started walking up with out much botheration as I was no where near exhaustion or having any kind of problems. I knew it was only a matter of time before I reached the summit. I kept telling myself not to invoke summit fever and enjoy the beautiful environment around. There’s absolutely no vegetation up the mountain now. It’s all through desert like arid terrain that the trail led. It’s not difficult but seemed a little long one. The route climbed the slope in the east and then took a turn to the west further rising in another bump. After a few such series of bumps, at the corner of the last raise it revealed the “Barafu” camp. There’s a good ranger’s hut here. I saw a few wooden huts.
I felt well acclimatized and there weren’t any signs of altitude sickness. Weather had been excellent and snow line appeared a hour’c climb above Barafu camp. It was close to full moon day. I kept telling myself that it’s going to be a perfect holiday climb for me, hiking up the snow slopes of Kilimanjaro in moon lit light! One enjoys splendid sunset views from Barafu camp. In the west, one sees Mt.Meru protruding out of clouds and in east Mt.Mawanzi casts beautiful citadel like raise into the sky. Kilimanajro will be looming in front of the eyes.

I walked around for acclimatization. Soon the rangers have approached to take entry into registration. I guess, with all the diligence of record making, they will have very appropriate statistics of number of climbers present on the mountain and making it to the summit.

I had tea and pop corn in the evening. I preserved some fruits as summit ration. Later I discussed with the guide to decided on the starting time towards summit. My observation in 2005 climb was that it’s better to avoid the cold conditions as much as possible during the climb. And in the night it gets really cold on the mountain. Considering my fast climbing pace I decided to start at 1 AM in the night and reach the summit around 7 AM. Once decided on the schedule, I quickly had my dinner and went to bed trying to sleep. Though I knew I would be too preoccupied with summit push. One more step towards Seven Summits journey.









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